GOING FOR A SPIN By Kim Bain

The G.Loomis Greenwater GWR901S is a great stick for bream popper tossing, soft plastics work, and casting metal profiles.

Spinning rods are at home anywhere from alpine lakes to bluewater, so whether it's trout or tuna you're chasing, G.Loomis make some of the best in the business.

Spin rods are the most versatile outfits sportfishing anglers can own. EJ Todd, distributor of G.Loomis rods in Australia, has worked extremely hard with local anglers to provide us with rods we need for every conceivable application.

The tried and true models aren't obsolete - they just move into a specialist niche. Newer models sit alongside them with their own specific characteristics.

Of course, each rod overlaps the one beside it in the range, which means customers can choose up or down as the target fish dictate.

CHOOSING A ROD

In most areas there 2 or 3 rods that will suit, so don't get too stressed about the final choice. G.Loomis rods are versatile enough to do the job of a couple of lesser rods, so it's possible to budget for premium quality.

A surface barra weapon will be great for jerk baits, and a jerk bait rod will make a great crank bait rod, so don't get too caught up in exactly what the rod is called.

The final factor to remember is that the power ratings between various ranges don't always align. Put simply, a 2 power rod in one range might be stiffer than a 3 power rod in another. Choosing the right tool for the job is personal - it's your rod! Follow the line class rating, blank action and the lure weight recommendations and you'll get the rod you want.

Pro Blue rods have cork grips, composite reel seats, and oversized guides to accommodate bulky leader knots.

THE SELECTION PROCESS

I like to start with rod length, which is ideal when sifting through the catalogue, and is the best by far when in a tackle store. The main parameters are transportation (rod tubes, boat lockers, inside the car) and casting distance. The longer the rod the greater the casting distance, and the more versatile it will be in open water. A 2.1 m rod is seldom harder to carry than a 1.8 m rod, but the 2.1 m model is far more useful.

Contrary to the way it was once done, I next select the action and grading that best suits the lure type I'm using. Will I see the fish strike? If so, I can choose lower modulus and save money. Do I want to feel the fish sniffing at the bait? Then I want the higher modulus version. Will the fish chase the lure or will the lure have to be dangled in front of the fish? Does the fish jump and will I be concerned about little treble hooks pulling, or am I using a big single hook? For lures with small treble hooks, moderate to moderate-fast actions are preferred.

Do I need casting distance? A lighter rod made from higher modulus graphite will generate more line speed and less casting wobble and friction, so it will cast further with more accuracy.

After fine-tuning the above factors I select a rod that loads with the chosen lure weights. A little fine-tuning might be required if the fish are at the extreme ends of the size range. After lure weight narrows the field, line weight plus gut feeling and research come into play.

Back in the monofilament days, many Aussies would choose a line class when selecting a rod. A rod was known as a 2 kg stick, a 6 kg stick or whatever. In 2005 we look for surface rods, jerkbait rods, soft plastic rods - in fact, we have rods designed for nearly every lure type and major species imaginable.

Looking at barra rods, the rod we used in the past with 6-10 kg mono is now used with 15 kg braid. We don't wish to break the line as much - we are more interested in catching the fish and bigger fish, too! We still fish with the same weight lures, hence we use the newer version of the same rod.

Apart from lessening the chance of breaking the line, there's the advantage of working the rod to the limit. This means better rod designs are required and when the pieces fall into place, you'll be keeping the rod bent in a fighting curve. This is where everything works for you, including the rod work being less tiring because the lever arm has been shortened - and you keep the rod bent. When the rod is bent, the super sharp reflexes of the graphite work the fish quicker than a human ever could, so the fish is less likely to get enough slack to charge off towards a snag. This hampers the fish's attempts at turning and running away; instead, the fish's head is pointed towards you, then when it beats its tail it swims towards you.

The Pro Blue Spin has a dramatic taper a powerful butt section and a fine tip.

MAXIMUM POWER

High sticking is the bane of all rod designers - even more than ceiling fans and car doors! High sticking is leaning back on a rod and holding it back past 60 degrees from the horizontal when in a fighting curve. This becomes especially dangerous when the fish is under the boat or a lure is snagged up.

By virtue of their length and fine diameter, spin rods can be more prone to high sticking than other rod types such as short baitcasters.

Getting the maximum power out of a rod is simple. Having used high modulus graphite rods for at least 5 years, with heavier than recommended line in situations like testing a rod, I'm yet to break one while fishing.

By using a different approach it's possible to extract more power without the risk associated with high sticking. Keep the rod between horizontal and 30 degrees, then grip the spool lightly to increase the drag and let the rod load up. This approach and the down and dirty variation of having the rod out to the side reduces the angle and is less likely to lead to breakages. Additionally, you can apply the power for much longer. Being entirely sexist here, inexperienced male anglers are more likely to execute a high stick heave back on the rod. When the rod is of lower modulus and there are a few safety factors built in, the rod may not pop before something else does.

While this trevally was totally out-gunned by the Pelagic Troll Spin, it's just the stick for dealing with bigger trevally and other bluewater applications right up to billfish.

Over-gunning works, but it is subtle as a sledgehammer and you may not get the bite in the first place if finesse is required. In pressured fisheries or on shut down fish when a lighter approach is required, you'll be glad you know how to get maximum grunt out of a finesse stick.

If you've ever seen the power zone diagram you'll know what I mean. The rod tip does all the work above about 45 degrees, yet we know the butt is where the power reserves are. This is why you see high stickers leaning back so far, because they are having trouble getting the power into the deal. The all-important power zone should see the rod somewhere between 30 degrees and horizontal.

The drag on the reel does most of the work below horizontal, and you can apply more pressure through the reel than you ever could through the rod. Many anglers use this well-known trick when they hook a clean fighting fish that's bigger than expected.

GREENWATER AND LR SERIES

These rods are my favourites from G.Loomis' vast selection of inshore light tackle and bluewater fishing rods. A comparison of two of them typifies my earlier comments about power ratings. The GWR901S is 1 power rated for 5-10 kg line (7-35 g casting weights), but in stark contrast the 4 power LR844 is also rated for 5-10 kg line and heavier lures up to 60 g. There are very valid reasons for the power rating difference. For example, the LR844 is likely to have to lift hefty fish from deep water. The GWR901S might have to fish 10 kg to the limit too, but the fish will have raced across shallow flats rather than down deep. Thus this GWR has a lighter tip designed for delicate presentations, whereas the LR incorporates a much punchier tip.

The rod's actions come into play too. As you'd expect, the LR has a moderate to fast action so it bends more towards the butt when loaded. The GWR has an extra fast action more suited to casting applications such as long range shallow water work. Each rod is built for a purpose, so no longer should you be fronting up at the local tackle shop asking for a 5-10 kg rod without considering the other variables. Remember to match the rod's recommended lure weight to that of the chosen lure.

I use the GWR901S for casting poppers to bream, hard bodies on the flats, small metal lures to trevally, and soft plastics to Australian salmon and small tuna.

Try the HSR 9000 GLX when working bream and bass with long range casts.

The LF844 is the rod you'd use for bait fishing with larger baits or baitfish when a bit of tip power is needed to set the hook. It's good for casting heavy metals or poppers greater than 30 g on 8-10 kg braid, even live-baiting with 4-6 kg line.

This rod has proven awesome for lightweight soft plastics use on big lake barra. It has the power to apply some serious muscle to one of the world's most powerful freshwater fish. Its GL2 material and moderate/fast action means it loads up close to the butt with a smooth curve.

In open water the LR844's big brother, the LR905S does all the heavy lure casting applications just a touch better than the shorter 844. The LR905 has a double-handed butt, a winch fitting for bigger spin reels, plus its extra length makes it a casting rod for mid range metal and surface lure spinning. It's great for big mahi mahi, and small Gts, queenfish, and throwing poppers for longtail tuna.

PRO BLUE RODS

Pro Blue is designed to fit in between the Greenwater and Pelagic series. The taper on these rods is dramatic, with fat, powerful butt sections that flow rapidly into fine bite-reading, hook-setting and long-casting tips. Power has been built into exactly the right spot so the rod locks up where you expect it to, then lifts the fish to help put line back on the reel.

Pro Blue rods have strong, oversized guides for saltwater knots and leaders to pass through. Their longer cork handles offer the right balance and leverage, plus unprecedented casting ability. Heavy-duty composite reel seats, braced guides, and single or double-foot spinning guides complete the delivery of the ultimate light tackle spin rods.

Two models stand out: the PBR844S 1 piece 7' fast action for kings, big reds, jewies, mackerel and mahi mahi. Rated at 12-15 kg, the PBR844S can pull a genuine 8 kg through the curve.

The PBR963S 1 piece 8' fast action lets you make long casts others only dream about, then hook, play and land longtail tuna, mackerel, trevally and anything else that comes within range. It has similar attributes to the LR905, but in a lighter, longer casting package.

The Dropshot DSR822 makes a deadly soft plastics and small lure bass rod.

PELAGIC

If you're into an even bigger class of fish on spin gear, then the pelagic series is for you. The PSR84-20S SU, PSR90-20STR or the slightly more powerful PSR78-25S make great 'come here' rods for sailfish and small marlin using 10 kg line and live or dead baits. Either the PSR84 or PSR78 fit best into the length class typically used in this bluewater application.

For more muscle the PSR72-40TR is about as crowbar-like as spin rods get.

As the rods move up in line class they also get shorter in length. It's all about leverage - the shorter the rod, the more hurt the angler can put on the fish without fatigue.

ULTRA LIGHTS

Panfish is an American term used to describe a fish that is generally a kilo or less in size. Bread and butter fish is probably the closest description in the Aussie vocabulary.

The awesome DSR820 Dropshot rods either in the standard or short butt make the best bream rods of all. For lighter work with more parabolic curves, look at the SR841 or the SR842. Lately I've been getting a kick out of seeing exactly what the lighter rods can do.

If you need long casting, light tip, and enough power in the butt to handle any bream, look no further than the HSR9000 GLX. Super high modulus graphite has been blended into the rod's action to provide the sensitivity of GLX for shy soft plastic bites, butt power to fight, steer and control the fish, flexibility for treble hooked lures, and at 2.3 m in length it's an awesome casting rod. The taper of the blank lets it load up smoothly and the ultra-light guides combined with the crispness of GLX straightens it up after the cast so that things don't wobble around all over the place.

It casts ultra light slugs out of sight and works great for every bream lure imaginable - from tiny surface plugs to soft plastics.

HSR9000S is available in GLX, IMX, GL3, and GL2 for fish up to 2.5 kg. Use it for flats breaming, long cast finesse soft plastics in bream estuaries, trout, even snapper at a pinch.

BASS RODS

The author with the end result of a little field-testing with the Bronzeback SMR752-SP.

The Dropshot DSR822 is the ultimate soft plastics and small lure bass rod for Australian conditions. Ideal jig head range is 5-12 g. If you want to throw super lightweights to shallow lake margins, cart the lighter DSR820 along.

As its name suggests, the Spin Jig SJR782 rod is designed for tossing rubber skirted lead head jigs around 7-10 g on spin tackle. It also makes a great backup rod for the DSR822.

The Bronzeback SMR752-SP is also another great rod for soft plastics and I use this model for the heavier end of the Slider techniques scale, dragging a 14 g jig head across the bottom. The 14 g recommendation is heavier than what the factory says, but the fighting curve of this 2 power rod suits 2-3 kg braid better than the gruntier 3 power variant - the SMR753-SP. Also, this rod is a little stiffer than the SJR782GLX, which I use for 3/8 oz jig heads.

The PR842 Popping Rod is one of those all rounders that you can do almost anything with. Mine sees use throwing 7 g spinnerbaits around the lily pads, surface lures, soft plastics for snapper, Australian bass soft plastics, and working soft plastics on the bottom. I also use it for throwing split shot and light Carolina rigs. The extra length is great for fish control and casting distance. It's a great all rounder, better in the multi-purpose mould than the similar PR8400.

BARRA, COD AND TROPICAL CREEK RODS

I've saved the best until last. From the same range that won best of show at the 2004 Australian Fishing Tackle Show, the BSR852is a spin rod for barramundi, Murray cod and creek jacks, ideal for throwing lightly weighted soft plastics and soft stickbaits.

The Loomis Bronzeback threadline SMR 882S-SP and a great plastics-caught snapper.(Mike Connolly pic).

These aesthetically pleasing, functional tools are the best all-purpose fishing rods in the Australian marketplace. From a pure stats and figures analysis, they are made from the best GLX available at the most affordable price. Features include new recoil guides and the finest cork handles. We've used the BSR852 for everything up to barramundi, surface lures, soft plastics, cod, spinnerbaits, flathead in the estuaries, tropical creeksters all over, and fishing soft plastic shads for snapper.

If you want a rod to handle lures up to 20 g, then this will become a pride and joy. The 2 power rating offers finesse in the tip, yet the grunt down lower due to the recovery speed of the GLX material is astounding - to both you and the fish you're fighting.

What about those new fangled guides? They're much better for the rod's performance and have been at least a dozen years in development, so you know they're going to be pretty good!